On our third morning in Iceland, we woke up at our hotel (Hali Country Hotel) and collected our things to head out for a full day of travel back in the direction we had come the previous day. I really wish we could have spent more time checking out the hotel area. It was a series of several buildings situated at the foot of the mountains also near the water. The place was very clean and seemed to be well-kept. The building that housed the restaurant was a very unusual looking place covered in corrugated metal and looking almost space age. The side of the building facing the road was decorated to look like a giant bookcase. You might describe the place as a mix of minimalistic industrial Ikea with a touch of whimsy. Strange yet, very pleasant. Inside the restaurant was a spectacular photography exhibit by a local photographer, and there was also a small museum. We really wished we had had time to check it out, but we had an early appointment for a morning tour and had to eat and run. Next time we visit Iceland, we will definitely repeat this stay!
Our plan for the day included a Zodiac tour of Jökulsárlón glacier bay, Diamond Beach, Svartifoss, and a long drive back to the west to meet up with my colleague Sarah Parent and her husband Stefan for an evening swim at the Blue Lagoon. The four of us would fly to Ireland the next day to meet up with the rest of our friends for main portion of our trip.
Roger and I arrived to Jökulsárlón, met the tour guides, and suited up to board the Zodiacs. There were two boats going out and there were about 8-10 or so tourists on our boat. We boarded and held on tight as our tour guide took off across the bay. I was in the front of the boat which pitched up quite a bit and was hard to hold on to my seat when we were going fast! It was so neat to be out in nature and flying across the water toward the glacier.
As we approached the areas with the icebergs, the guide explained that we would keep our distance from the glacier and the icebergs as the ice can give way and fall at any time causing danger to small boats. As icebergs melt they can break apart and flip also creating dangerous situations to those who venture too close. It was very interesting to see striping in the glacier caused by volcanic ash over the years. Some icebergs were nearly all black, some were striped black and white, but the blues were absolutely awe-inspiring. Our guide explained that the "new" icebergs, or those which have recently broken away from the glacier are bright blue. It has to do with not being exposed to sunlight. The longer the ice sits exposed to the daylight the whiter it becomes. He said that they can go a long time with no new ice chunks breaking from the glacier and then suddenly a whole bunch with break off. They float around sometimes for years before they completely melt or follow the currents out toward the sea.
The bay has a narrow channel where the icebergs get bottle necked and break up as they float out to sea. They wash around in the surf and melt down into clear ice chunks which then get deposited on the adjacent beach, giving that area the name of Diamond Beach. Again, I soooo wish we could have spent a couple of more hours here photographing the icebergs, the seals, and the "diamonds!"
While we were out on the lake, we spotted two different kinds of seals. The first was a gray seal which are apparently more shy. This seal took note of our approach and then decided to make his escape into the water. The other seal was a "common" or harbour seal. He seemed to not mind our approach and we were able to get quite close with the Zodiac. After the tour we stood around the shore line for a while watching the seals swim around and the gulls fly. It's kind of mesmerizing to watch and listen to the sounds of the waves and birds and see the playful seals swim around. We then walked the path along the channel and under the bridge (Rt 1) and out onto Diamond Beach for a few pictures.
We knew we needed to keep on moving to make our 8pm ticket time at the Blue Lagoon so we begrudgingly headed back to the car to keep on going. Our next stop was Skaftafell, a national park, and the place where we would hike to one of my "must see" spots. Svartifoss is a waterfall surrounded by the volcanic basalt columns and I absolutely wanted to photograph it. That was the whole reason we made our treck this far to the east. The park had a nice visitor center. The hike to the falls was around 2 miles or so....uphill! It was a nice trail, but I definitely struggled to get up there! The views were interesting. From up high the surrounding area looked desolate with few trees. Mostly small shurbs, glaciers, and streams going out to the sea. Roger commented that it reminded him of what it must have felt like for Noah to get off the ark up on Mount Ararat and look out over a vast landscape of nothing but minimal vegetation and water draining out to sea.
We made it to the falls, an interesting little grotto-like area surrounded by a hillside of shrubbery. I was thankful that the area was not overrun with tourists. Still thinking of our timeline to meet up with Sarah and Stefan, I wanted to stay for a short while to enjoy the sight, get a couple of long exposure pictures without tourists, and then keep on moving. However, some of the other tourists were ignoring the signs to stay back and were photo bombing all the "rule followers." Several of us with tripods were lined up on the deck trying to patiently wait on those who needed their selfies and "fashion shoots" in front of the falls. *sigh* Thankfully, in answer to my prayer, I got my opening for a clear shot! I did get over excited and forgot to wipe the spray and rain from my lens, so unfortunately I've got some water drops and distortion in the image, but overall, I'm very happy.
After we finished visiting the falls, we hiked back down (much easier!) and found a food truck for some lunch near the parking lot. It cost a LOT of kronas! Pro travel tip--You will not be happy if you do that currency conversion math. Just swipe your card and enjoy your meal.
Back to the car we had several hours of driving to get to Grindavik and the Blue Lagoon. We pulled off once so I could take some pictures of the Icelandic sheep. For some reason, the we tourists find them compelling! Haha! I interrupted the black sheep from a good head scratch on the scratching post. After my silliness of photographing sheep, we got back on the road. We made a quick stop at Vík again for gas and the restroom at the Icewear store. Roger got a little tired so I had my turn to test drive that Outback in Iceland! While I took my turn driving and Roger got a few zzzzz's the sun broke through the clouds in the most gorgeous way and just lit up the landscape! All the dull shrubbery and grass lit up with a green and golden glow and the blue sky broke through the clouds! At one point I saw 3 sheep sitting atop a large rock at the base of the mountain off to my right. It was a male and two female. It reminded me of the Lion King the way the sun shone down spot lighting that male sheep with his curly horns right on the top edge of that rock. I wanted SO BADLY to stop for a picture, but Roger was asleep and I didn't want to wake him with a stop. I reminded myself that not EVERYTHING has to be recorded with the camera. Some things can be enjoyed in the minds eye. So I bookmarked that spot in my mind. A little ways down the road on the left hand side (toward the sea) there were fields of horses. The sun came through backlighting them and making their manes and tails light up and flow in the breeze. Some of the were spirited and running around together. Once, again, I had to record that in my mind's eye and decide that on the next visit to Iceland, we'd have to reserve a tour on horseback. Roger eventually woke up and got a few cell phone pictures of the afternoon sun on the landscape. (The 2 pictures below with the sunlight on the landscape are his shots). We both still remember how awesome that was! We made a stop at a small town convenience store and there was another field of horses where I got the shot below. But the sun had hidden itself away behind the clouds by then.
At some point that afternoon we realized we were not going to make our 8pm time for the Blue Lagoon so we forfeited our tickets and "made a donation." Sarah and Stefan were still able to go enjoy. Since we knew we were not going to make it, we made an impromptu stop near a lighthouse off the beaten path. Well, most things in Iceland are off the beaten path! We got a few pictures then headed toward our hotel in Grindavik. I had tried to call to let them know we would be arriving late, but I could not get cell phone service. When we arrived, we found that they had given our room away. Since it was pre-paid, we sat in the lobby and waited for them to figure out what to do with us. Thankfully they contacted another person who was able to put us up in a guest house for the night. A woman met us and guided us to the guesthouse and got us all settled in. She was very kind, and we were able to have a comfortable spot for the night, albeit not where we had expected.
*Yes, I know. I forgot to wipe the water drops off my lens, again. And yes, my sensor was dirty! Should have had it cleaned before shooting landscapes at f22! And right again, I decided NOT to do all that cleanup work for a blog picture...because this is NOT a competition. So there. LOL! ;-)
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This year was my first year to photograph the BOH pageant, and my first ever pageant experience as well. The day started out with interviews. The nervous girls lined the halls of the host church dressed in their interview attire and waiting for their turn before the judges. As they came out of the interview room, they chatted with each other about what questions the judges had asked. Most of them stopped by the photo station to have their pictures taken in their business outfits. Then they headed out for lunch.
After lunch the girls came back and had hair and makeup done and changed into jeans and pageant t-shirts. Most of them stopped back by the photo station for a shot with their framed pictures of honorees. The main pageant event before a live audience started in the late afternoon with the girls' introductions. The previous year's queens made their farewell speeches, and there were plenty of tears among the girls---and the parents!
After introductions the girls changed into their model wear. According to my understanding, this could be anything from a costume representing a decade or historical period, to the uniform of a sport or activity, or career wear representing their future aspirations. It was fun to see their different looks!
Finally, each girl changed into her dress or evening gown and returned before the judges a final time. At this time each girl had to draw a question to answer on the spot. The girls were all so poised and elegant!
Finally, the judges' decisions were made and the awards were presented! Every single one of the girls earned a Hope Award! The Humanitarian Award went to first time competitor Janelle, who also won a photogenic award AND the Little Miss crown! The other photogenic awards were made and the crowns placed on the heads of the 2020 queens. The other 2020 queens include Keeley (Young Miss), Alexxis (Junior Miss), Audrey (Teen Miss), and Keragan (Miss). Finally, the Cherished Queen award was presented to Mia! Congratulations to ALL of the queens, runners up, and every participant!
After the final group picture we went back and took some more portraits with the crowns and sashes!
To Laura and team, judges, stylists, volunteers, and parents--Bravo! Well done!
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Since Caitlin and Daniel's parents knew the right people, we were able to get permission to use the field for their first look. Only we had to dash around the sprinklers!
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In addition to the still photos on the field, we were able to get the required FAA and Purdue University clearance to use the drone to produce this fun short video for Caitlin and Daniel!
Suckow Video
After all the pictures of the couple and wedding party we went back up to the press box and finished off the family formals before the ceremony. Then Caitlin walked down the aisle with her father and joined her groom for their vows, exchange of rings, and their first kiss as husband and wife.
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Since all the family formals were finished before the ceremony we were able to exit immediately and take a limo and the mini Boilermaker Special around campus for more pictures of the couple and wedding party at the iconic Purdue landmarks. We stopped at the Engineering Fountain, the bell tower, the Purdue University arch at the Union, and of course, Harry's Chocolate Shop.
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We arrived back to Ross Ade to join the cocktail hour and get ready for the reception. Caitlin and Daniel decided to cut their black and gold marbled cake first to delay dinner a bit since the caterers got stuck in the elevator. I don't think anyone noticed, and the food made it to the tables not long after that! Then the couple had their first dance and dances with the brides' dad and the groom's mom. Before we packed up to leave, we did a couple of "end of night shots" using the reflections in the windows to create interest. At the end of the day, it was a fun wedding and I was exited to create some unique shots for the couple! Congratulations Caitlin and Daniel!
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And here are a few of me teaching, demoing, and helping others.
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The focus of the workshop was specifically about how to work with lighting "on the fly" in the context of weddings. I am very thankful for the vendors who were wonderful collaborators on the project. Each one is listed below, and I would encourage others to consider working with them when in need of their services. A very special thanks to our model couple Nathan and Vivian Phillips who were celebrating 2 years of marriage and who are also wonderful creatives in their own right. I met them earlier this year when we worked a real wedding together, and we really gelled as a team. (They are also photorapher/videographers).
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Our day was broken up into segments of classroom-like instruction and hands-on practice and followed the flow of a real wedding. We spent about an hour photographing the "getting ready" pictures including hair and makeup, dress, and details. A couple of the attendees enjoyed learning how to do "the hairspray shot" which I didn't get on my camera. (The shot involves back lighting the person having her hair done to show the cloud of hairspray.) Other class attendees enjoyed photographing the dress, rings, jewelry and other details.
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We chose a champagne lace sheath by DB Studio from David's Bridal for our bride and complimented the simple sheath with rose gold and champagne colored accessories and a cathedral length champagne veil.
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The color pallet we chose for this fall event departed from the traditional oranges of fall in favor of a dusty rose for the bridesmaids and coordinating colors like various shades of pink, purples, deep reds, blue, and white. One of a Kind Events did a magnificent job of bringing this color pallet together for a gorgeous and rich display of color!
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Once the details were shot, we then had a "working lunch" where I answered questions and gave tips about working as a second shooter and about leading team with a second shooter.
After lunch we had some extra models come and help us fill in the roles of family for the mock ceremony and family formals. We ran the processional and recessional about 4 times so different photographers could practice shooting. The outdoor space we used at the Pavilion Center in Avon was pretty chilly, and the lighting was difficult being heavily back lit with the late afternoon sun. It posed a good challenge for everyone. After family formals we shot the couple pictures and wedding party pictures.
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After the portraits we went back inside for a dinner break of pizza and then shot some pictures of the reception space (The Aspen Room at the Pavilion Center), more decor, cake, and the "end of night" shots. The cake, provided by Classic Cakes in Carmel was a gorgeous little gem! Purple with gold stenciling and beautiful floral sugar work! The chocolate and strawberry layers were amazingly moist and delicious! We all enjoyed a few bites after the cake cutting pictures!
It sure was a packed day! Would I do it again? Sure! But, I would split it into a two-day workshop next time!
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Collaborators:
Venue--Pavilion Center in Avon, IN http://www.washingtontwpparks.org/pavilion-center.html
Hair-- Paige Patrick https://www.urbansocietysaloncarmel.com/
Makeup--
Dresses--David's Bridal of Greenwood, IN https://www.davidsbridal.com/DBIAjaxStoreLocatorDirectionsView?stLocId=73
Flowers and decor--One of a Kind Events https://www.oneofakind.events/
Cake--Classic Cakes https://www.classiccakescarmel.com/
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Fast forward several months to their July 2019 wedding! The day started with Blair and Ryan getting ready at separate private homes in Blair's home town of Lafayette, Indiana. Blair chose to have 2 wedding dresses, one with a detachable train, and a different pair of shoes for each dress. We photographed the dresses, accessories, rings, stationary, and all the girls getting ready.
Blair had a special gift for her mom, and we were able to catch this sweet quiet moment in the middle of the flurry of activity!
Meanwhile over at the guys' house...our teammate was photographing Ryan's getting ready and a few moments with his groomsmen.
Then we all met up at Saint Lawrence Catholic Church for the formal pictures and ceremony!
Blair got into her ceremony dress, collected her flowers, and we headed outside for pictures.
At the church, Ryan and the groomsmen met up with his sisters who were also attendants on his side. Their gray dresses coordinated with the groomsmen and finished off the wedding party.
Finally, we brought the bride and groom together for "No Look" pictures so that they could keep the tradition of the "First Look" being when Blair went down the aisle, yet still have a moment to be able to speak to each other and hopefully calm the nerves just a little.
Then it was time to get in place for the ceremony to being! And so began the seating of the grandparents and parents.
And then the processional, followed by Blair's entrance with her father...and there may have been a few misty eyes.
After family formals were finished at the church, the bridal party met up at the Engineering Fountain at Purdue for the casual and fun bridal party pictures. We enjoyed tag-teaming with Unmasking Images (videography) throughout the day, and captured some action shots while they took their turn directing the group.
While we were disappointed that the fountain was turned off, we were still able to get this great shot with the fountain architecture.
Then it was off to the Purdue Union for the reception! The ballrooms were decorated beautifully thanks to the Union and Red Fox Flowers, and the cake by Mammaw's Sweet Shop was beautiful! The cocktail hour was made especially pleasant with the instrumentalists of Lux String Ensemble, and the guests enjoyed the Magic Mirror Photo Booth with Joe DeFabis.
The evening continued with the grand entrance, cake cutting, speeches, an emotional first dance, parent dances, and anniversary dance. Velocity Sound took care of the music and flow of the evening and provided a great party for everyone to enjoy.
Before the photography team packed up we sneaked the couple out of the reception for a few minutes for this "End of Night Shot" on the grand staircase. Congratulations Blair and Ryan!
Venues: Ceremony-- Saint Lawrence Catholic Church, Lafayette, IN
Reception-- Purdue Memorial Union
Videography: Unmasking Images
Cake: Mammaw's Sweet Shop
Flowers: Red Fox Flowers
DJ: Velocity Sound
Dresses: Nancy's Bridal Boutique
Hairstylist: Natasha Boyd
Makeup: Phoenix in Flight Beauty
Ring: Distinctive Diamonds (now Diamond Direct)
Stationary: Basic Invite
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Our first stop was Seljalandsfoss and Gljufrabui. Words fall short of expressing how amazing and delightful it is to walk the path around and behind Seljalandsfoss and photograph it from so many different angles. We made good use of our waterproof overpants and jackets as the spray around the falls will seriously drench you! I spent a good bit of time photographing both with my "real" camera, cell phone, and Go Pro. Roger was so patient waiting for me and walking around taking his own cell phone shots.
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After we finished the loop around Seljalandsfoss, we walked about a 1/2 km or so over to Gljufrabui falls (Don't ask me how to pronounce that one. And I'm not quite sure why it doesn't end in "foss" like all the other waterfall names.) This falls has a completely different personality. Nestled in a canyon, there is a narrow passage where you have to walk on rocks around the canyon walls to get into the inner chamber. There was quite a line of tourists waiting (some not so patiently) for the opportunity to get into or out of the canyon. Once inside, this narrow falls was a lovely sight and people took turns climbing up on a big boulder for a photo op in front of the falls. This small falls is easy to bypass in favor of the main attraction of Seljalandsfoss, but for those willing to take a little extra time, the visit is worthwhile. After spending somewhere near 2 hours at these two falls, we headed to the snack bar, the restrooms, and back to the car.
Iceland Seljalandsfoss and Gljufrabui We hopped back in the car and headed a few minutes down the road to Skogafoss. I commented that I needed to pick up the photography pace and not spend as long at this stop if we were to be on track for the rest of the day....but that plan went out the window! We probably spent nearly as long at this stop too. Skogafoss is majestic and awesome in the sheer volume of water that rushes over the falls. You can't safely get too close and you will certainly be soaked from the spray as you venture towards it. I spent a bit of time with my tripod and ND filter to work on some "smooth water" shots from a distance and also closer up. It was difficult to shoot this falls without people in the shots since the approach was pretty much straight on. There was a long staircase up the cliff on one side of the falls, so where you see a staircase, there seems to be an obligation to climb them and see what's up there. So up we went. At the top we enjoyed the view of the falls and the view of the flatland out toward the sea. We saw there was a path following the river upstream and wished we had time to see where it went, but we had to keep moving along our route so we headed back down and toward the car. But first we stopped at the snack bar and restrooms. We bought a couple of sandwiches and a rocky road dessert bar which was one of the best things I ate in Iceland. We split it. Wish we had bought 2 of them!
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A little ways down the road we made our next stop. Not at a waterfall. This stop was especially for Roger. It's a 1930s DC-3 plane wreck which has been there since 1973. The plane's carcass still sits out in the wilderness near the beach and has become a tourist attraction. Since Rog is in aviation, we had to stop and see this. We hiked the 2 or so miles out to the wreck. I have to admit I was not feeling it on this hike. The wind had picked up and it had gotten a little colder. And my back and hips hurt. (It's on ongoing thing for me). And the overcast skies still did not bode well for our chances of seeing the northern lights that night, but I prayed anyway for the chance to see and photograph them. After a looong walk (about 45 min) we finally made it out to the wreck and spend a while photographing it while Rog climbed in, on, and all around it. I was starting to get a little antsy about making it to the rest of the stops before dark and decided I did NOT want to walk all the way back to the car, both for the discomfort and for the time. There was a shuttle service running between the wreck site and the parking so we took that back instead.
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We realized we were not going to make all our planned stops before dark, so we decided to push our last waterfall to the next day and just hit one more stop before dark. We drove another hour or so to the Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach near the town of Vik. This beach is known not just for the black sand, but also the volcanic basalt columns and the nesting area of puffins in the summer. This beach is said to be the most dangerous beach in Iceland for the sneaker waves which come up and take tourists by surprise. Numerous people have been overtaken and drenched in icy waters and some have been swept away and died. We were well informed about this and were careful not to turn our backs to the sea or venture too close. We did spend quite a while exploring and climbing on the basalt columns, and I worked on some long exposures of the sea and rock formations. We also noted that the sheep in the area like to graze quite close to the edge of cliffs!
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Afterwards we left and drove a few more minutes into Vik, a cute little coastal town at the base of a mountain. A little white church with a red roof up on a hilltop overlooks the town below. We found a gas station and a shop next door called Icewear which turned out to be a wonderful rest stop. There is a huge outerwear store, souvenir shop, and restaurant all in one! We each found something to eat at the restaurant, browsed the store, and used the facilities. I highly recommend this stop to anyone passing through Vik!
It was after dark by the time we left Vik, and we still had about 2 hours to travel to our hotel. On a 2 lane road through the wilderness. (I would NOT recommend traveling after dark out in the wilderness, but we didn't know any better.) I called the hotel to let them know we would be arriving late. We drove and drove, and passed an occasional truck going in the opposite direction. I looked out my window into the darkness. And saw stars. AND SAW STARS!!! It was CLEAR! I got excited and we both started watching for northern lights. Roger was seeing the northern skies on his side of the car. And he's the one who spotted the faint green glow. I had read that the northern lights sometimes only last for a few minutes so I excitedly urged him to find a place to pull over! (It is against the law to stop on the road and there is no shoulder so we had to wait until we found a pull off.) I grabbed my camera, tripod, and cell phone for light so I could see what I was doing to set up. It was pitch black except for 1 car that passed. I was so excited and thankful to God for the opportunity to witness this amazing phenomenon that I had wanted to see since I was quite young. And so happy to have a couple of pictures too!
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After about 15 min or so the color started fading, and we hopped back into the car to continue on toward the hotel. I must have been grinning from ear to ear in the darkness as we finished our drive to Hali Country Hotel. This is one of the only places to stay out in the middle of nowhere in the southeast of the island. The place was completely silent though the parking lot was full. It seems like things pretty much shut down soon after dark. We found our room key on the front desk and settled into a very clean and comfortable and IKEA-like room.
This September 2019 trip was planned in coordination with the Daguerre Club of Indiana (a professional photography club) of which I am a member. In celebration of the club's 100th anniversary, we decided to take a big 2-week trip together to Ireland. The nice thing about the Daguerre club is that all of the get-togethers include spouses. Our total travel group included 20 individuals. 9 Indiana photographers and spouses and one honorary member from Texas (Jim Hamel and spouse Susan) who were our guides, having been to Ireland a number of times. Several of our group chose to tack on "pre trip" trips or "post trip" trips. Roger and I decided to add a few extra days for a pre-trip to Iceland en route to Ireland while some of the others added pre or post trips to Scotland or England.
Day 1: Iceland
Roger and I arrived to Iceland on the morning of Wed September 4th after an overnight flight on Iceland Air. Our first day activities included picking up the rental car (a Subaru Outback), driving from the Keflavik airport to the capital Reykjavik to explore for a few hours and then take an ATV excursion. Our arrival to Keflavik was pretty seamless. My first impression of the airport was that it was clean and modern with simple and streamlined design. We stopped at an ATM to attempt to take out some cash in local currency, but we were baffled with the exchange rate so we skipped that since we knew we would not need much (if any) cash. Iceland is mostly cashless, though it can be helpful to have some cash on hand. In the end we ended up getting 5000 kronas somewhere else and then didn't use any until we returned to the airport for departure. (5000 ISK is about $40 USD) I always had to supress a laugh every time I purchased something and was given a total like 1800 krona for a pastry and a cup of hot chocolate. Iceland is very expensive (especially food) and the conversion rate is crazy so you can either use a quick online conversion calculator or just shrug and swipe your card. TRAVEL TIP: At the Keflavik airport, you have to present your boarding pass to purchase any food or souvenirs. And some of the cafes only take cash or have a minimum for cards. So before you get in line to purchase anything, make sure you have both in hand!
Once we picked up our rental car from Lagoon Car rentals, we headed out for the 45ish minute drive to Reykjavik. On that drive we were really in awe of the landscape. We commented several times to each other how "other worldly" the landscape was. Almost like the moon or mars. All the volcanic rock makes for some very unusual scenery and there is very little vegetation.
We arrived in Reykjavik around 10am and visited the Hallgrimskirkja (the landmark Lutheran church). The architecture initially struck me as looking harsh and angular. I then realized it is patterned after the basalt columns found in the landscapes of the eastern part of the island so that appeased my initial reaction to the architecture. The interior of the church is completely void of ornate painting and design often seen in Catholic cathedrals. Instead I found an interesting tension between what seemed a sterile atmosphere of stark white columns and ceilings and stately atmosphere of understated elegance and simplicity. The organ music provided an atmosphere of hushed reverence despite the steady flow of visitors snapping pictures. One local woman whispered her prayers in the back of the church around a pedestal of lit candles. We took an elevator up to the clock tower where we were treated to a great view of the city below.
After visiting the church we took pictures around the statue of Leif Erickson on the plaza (and I might have imitated his grand stance for a picture %-). We explored some of the shops and cafes and were humored by the street signs with loooong names. I highly recommend the Braud & Co for amazing cinnamon rolls and fresh local pastries. Braud didn't have beverages options so we also stopped in Reykjavik Roasters for hot chocolate which hit the spot on a chilly rainy day....but they wouldn't let me eat my cinnamon roll from Braud in their shop so "negative points" for Reykjavik Roasters on that.
Another stop in town was the museum Tales from Iceland. This little museum has a series of short videos and interactive displays focusing on some historical, geological, and social aspects of Iceland as well as some visitor stories. The museum is small and low key, but a nice place to sit down, relax, and enjoy some free refreshments and informative vignettes. I have to admit the jet lag was catching up to us and we nodded off a couple of times. But a nice little stop during our visit.
After spending a few hours in Reykjavik, we headed out to the base camp for Safari Tours and met with our ATV tour guide who told us is name was Sir Kaktus. We are still not sure if he was pulling our leg or just trying to give us a way to pronounce and otherwise difficult Icelandic name, but "Sir Kaktus" we called him. We got layered up in our gear and then headed out on our personalized 3 hour ride into the Icelandic wilderness. This was a pretty rugged ride and though the scenery was barren, it was spectacular in its own way. We saw several sheep along the route and passed the Geo Thermal plant as well as some hot spring thermal areas. We made it to the summit of a tall mountain overlooking miles of scenery and stopped for some pictures. Then we headed back down and rode back to base camp via a slightly different route. At one point we were actually driving on the main highway at about 55 mph (for about a km) before turning off onto the trails. On the way back the rain started coming down and the visibility was reduced, but we enjoyed the excursion tremendously and have high recommendations for Safari Tours! Here's some of my GoPro footage. (I was following the guide who appears ahead of me periodically, and Roger was behind.)
After the tour we checked in to our hotel (Center Hotel Plaza) which as very clean with the streamline and minimalistic design aesthetic, but we had the hardest time figuring out how to turn on the lights! Turns out there is a slot on the light switch where you have to insert your room card to activate any lights or outlets in the room. Figuring out lights, faucets, and shower functions turned out to be a theme from hotel to hotel across the entire trip! LOL! We were pleased to find a Gideon New Testament and enjoyed looking up John 3:16 to see if we could understand any of the Icelandic text.
Then we ventured out to find dinner and found a few options within walking distance. Most were some form of seafoood and lamb. Not feeling very adventurous, we choose a grill where Roger ordered steak and I had...I can't quite remember. I think it was hake. Afterwards we did a quick walk through of a local grocery where I was overwhelmed with all the varieties of Ritter chocolate! (The first time I every tried this chocolate was years ago when I sat next to a fellow from Iceland on a plane. He shared a piece of this chocolate with me, and it's been a fav ever since!) After purchasing a Ritter to enjoy on the next day's road trip, we walked back to the hotel and went straight to bed.
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Paola's eight escorts or "Chambelanes" were passing the time playing Jenga and occasionally raiding the girls with Nerf guns.
After photographing some storytelling candids, I then took some of the details shots (Paola's dress and accessories, her Bible, her doll, and the several pairs of shoes she would wear throughout the day).
Afterwards I photographed Paola getting into her dress. Getting the corset laced up turned out to be trickier than planned and her father, Valente eventually came to the rescue! Before long, the limo arrived to take the young people to the church.
The mass was held at St. Anthony's Catholic Church, and the ceremony began with the "Damas" and "Chambelanes" entering in the same fashion as a wedding processional.
The priest interpreted himself, giving the mass in both Spanish and English. Paola was presented with some special jewelry and everyone took communion.
After the mass, we spent a good bit of time photographing friends and family groupings with Paola. The boys passed the time playing with a Rubic's cube and Snapchatting.
Once the pictures at the church were finished, we went to the War Memorial to take portraits of Paola and her court. That day was quite cold and very gusty so outdoor pictures were rather challenging. We had lots of laughs as the wind whipped everyone's dresses and hair all over. At one point we were photographing in front of a fountain when a gust of wind suddenly sprayed the kids with icy water.
Cameron found the globe of a street lamp that had fallen over and decided to try it on for size. We then went up the steps of the War Memorial hoping to get some nice shots in front of the gold doors. The wind was so strong, that it was work to stand upright! Paola's dress blew up over her head a couple of times resulting in a few hilarious captures!
Thankfully, the War Memorial staff took pity on us and let us inside for a few pictures. The shots we took in the upper room of the War Memorial were the most stunning shots of the day!
After portraits, I headed over to Sleep Inn & Suites where the party was to take place, and the party bus took Paola, her friends, and their chaperon (Carolina) for a quick Taco Bell run before arriving at the hotel. During a little bit of down time I photographed Paola's ring, her tiara, and shoes again, along with her doll, the cake, and some of the reception decor. To kick off the party, the students were announced and entered the reception hall (again, similar to wedding fashion). The dinner was served buffet style and the hotel staff provided excellent service headed up by Caterin Banegas the Events Manager.
Some of the traditional elements of the party included Paola giving her doll to a younger girl in her family. She also recieved her tiara from her sister, and her father Valente changed her shoes from her flats to heels.
After the changing of the shoes, Paola danced her first waltz with her dad. Her Chambelan of honor then waltzed with her.
Afterwards Paola and her court presented a couple of choreographed dances and then Paola's parents recognized and toasted those who had contributed to the success of the celebration. Once all the formalities were over, the open dancing began. There were the typical dances that are popular at weddings and also the salsa, merengue, and bachata. (I personally loved to hear the latin music!)
About an hour or so in, a live band arrived and kicked the party up a few notches (and a bunch of decibals!) La Banda Real Conkistadora put on a tremendous show (note to self, take ear plugs to next quinceanera)! The dance floor filled up and everyone had a great time!
It seemed to be another tradition to wear out the quinceanera by dancing with all the men now that she is "of age." A couple of times the band started into a fast dance and Paola was passed from fellow to fellow who delighted to twirl her into dizziness while the band played a song that seemed to get faster and faster and never come to an end. Everyone cheered, laughed, and whooped while her dad, brothers, and the other guys kept the marathon dance going. She finally got a little break, but before long, they repeated the whole thing all over again! Whew! And Paola was such a good sport about it! I enjoyed the day immensely and look forward to the next opportunity to photograph a quinceanera. Kudos to Valente and Elizabeth for a tremendous day and for allowing me to participate through photography! My very best wishes to the lovely Quinceañera! Paola, you are a star!
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Because of Bill's incarceration and limited contact with family and friends, I’m sure there are questions about his diagnosis and passing. I hope to clarify that for you and then share some tidbits of his life in the last couple of years.
On May 19th while Roger and I were having lunch, I got a call from a doctor here in Indy. He said Bill had been diagnosed with Leukemia and needed permission to do a bone marrow biopsy. I immediately started contacting family, and Eva and I went down to the hospital to see him.
He had been at Westville Correctional Center and had been feeling sick. He had passed out and fallen, gashing his head. I believe he had also ruptured his spleen. When the doctors realized his condition, he was transferred to Indy for treatment. Apparently, my having been contacted by the doctor a breach in protocol, and the guards who were with him were not expecting us. This threw them into a bit of a bind and they were having to figure out how to handle the situation. They allowed us a brief visit with Bill, but we were told that he would otherwise not be allowed visitors and that we would not hear any news of his condition until or unless the medical staff advised the Department of Correction to call in the family. Unsatisfied with that, I contacted the commissioner’s office to request special arrangements. I was given a point of contact for daily medical updates but he was still not allowed visitors. The news was about the same each day, that he was in serious condition, but otherwise not much change to report. In the first week of June, it was determined that he would have an extended stay in the hospital and the DOC decided to allow 2 visits per week. All of the potential visitors’ names had to be submitted to the DOC for background checks. That week Jessica visited, John and Eva visited, and a special arrangement was made for a 3rd visit so that Dad and Mom could see him Saturday the 7th. I began lining up the visitors for the following week. Roger and I went to see him on Tuesday the 10..th When we arrived, Bill was discussing with the doctors his wishes to quit treatment and transition to hospice. He had had a very rough go with the chemo and had contracted an infection. He had complications in his lungs, spleen, kidneys. He was tired, beaten down, and in a lot of pain. The doctors preferred that he give it a few more days but said his decision was very reasonable. Roger and I sat with him for a short time and he told me “They want me to wait, but I’m not going to.”
The hospital staff began making arrangements to transfer him back to prison for hospice. I started making phone calls and scheduling visitors to see him at the prison over the next couple of days, but those visits never happened. Due to the prison not having the needed IV meds to manage his pain, he was delayed in returning to the prison and passed away in the hospital about 26 hours later on June 11th. Some of the last conversations we had were about his concern over taking pain meds, expressing concern for both of his children and their mothers, and expressions of love to the family. He also looked at me and referring to Christ, said, “He suffered more than this.”
Reflecting on his time in prison, I know that Bill did a good bit of soul searching. He spent a lot of time reading and listening to K-LOVE on his little radio. He told me anecdotes of daily life behind bars like how to slip into the chow hall lines to get served lunch twice, how he mouthed off to a guard and got sent to discipline committee, and how a group of guys had given a unsuspecting inmate a shake made with a laxative. We discussed questions like should a Christian fight back when he was attacked and robbed and if Christians should take anti-depressants. He called me for prayer when he was having a particularly difficult days resisting the urge to do drugs, when he was put into protective custody over an incident, and when a guard found contraband outside of his window ledge. *(Apparently, he had recently been moved to a new cell and was sitting on his bunk reading when a guard came in and went straight to the window. He opened it and found a shank on the outside. Bill had called me asking me to pray about that situation. He had said, "Aside from actually using it, being caught in possession was one of the most serious offenses." He said he thought that the guard believed him that it wasn't his because it looked weathered, like it had been there a long time, and the guard did not haul him off for questioning.)
*These details were omitted during my reading at the memorial.
I’d like to read some selections from Bill’s letters so that his voice be heard today as well.
9/1/12 From Wayne County Jail: “I have taken the steps to get right with God again. I know it seems like the only time I ever care about what God wants in my life is AFTER I get in trouble. Almost as if God is saying, ‘Have a seat for awhile, I have things to teach you.’ …..I have asked God to forgive me, acknowledged to him that I am weak, and that all I am is a sinner, unworthy of his grace. He is teaching me many things, I am reading the Word for long lengths of time, asking to be taught, asking for the wisdom to understand....I get discouraged a lot in here when I think of how many times I have let God down, how many times He has had to punish me, and how many times I have done what I wanted, and not what he wanted me to do. I feel that I have let him down, and disappointed him, but then I read where it says, ‘I’ve known you since before you were born…’ I’ve realized that He has known all along that this was going to happen to me. He knew I would be here right now, and from that I can know with certainty that he has plans for my life. That was a big problem that I had before I came in here; I didn’t know who I was. I know that despite being a sinner, and an addict, and a thief, I am, above all else, more than a conqueror, because he has given me strength. I rely on that every single day because I know for a fact that if you knock on the Devil’s door long enough sooner or later someone’s going to answer it. Thankfully, either I was knocking at the wrong address, or God answered the door that day…..Please pray that I can continue to fight against temptations and my addictions. I really don’t care who you tell about any of this stuff, because I need the prayer, and if my testimony and my problems can discourage or keep someone else off those drugs, then please share my story.”
10/14 /12 From Wayne County Jail: “I’m learning a lot about my life, mainly that it really isn’t mine, but God’s, and I need to be open, and willing to let Him take it and make it what he wants it to be. I’m learning, finally lol. Please keep me in your prayers…Can you send me some more songs? I’d like that Kutlass song I told you about, and a couple more song lyrics if you can.
‘I Can Only Imagine’ and that Michael Card song ‘El Shaddai.’ For some reason those songs have been running through my mind and I can’t remember hardly any of the words.”
*For those who are not familiar with the song El Shaddai, the title refers to a Hebrew name for God which means the “all sufficient one” and is often translated in English as “God Almighty” or the “Almighty God.” The song is a worshipful song that also utilizes other Hebrew names for God which identify Him as “sovereign” or “ruler over all,” and as one’s personal Lord. You will be invited to join us in singing this song near the close of the service.
6/27/13 From Plainfield Correctional Center: “I had been caught up in my own self and my own views…and had this combative ‘them against me’ attitude that I didn’t show much interest in the family. I realize now that besides Jesus, my family is really all that I have. I want to repair the damage that I’ve caused and rebuild the bridges that I’ve burned. I know that to rebuild any amount of trust will take not only a lot of time, but also a lot of proof that my life has been changed and I really am a different person…To be honest, if I were released tomorrow, I can’t really say what would happen to me. I’d like to say I wouldn’t go back to how I was before, but I’m scared that I’m not strong enough yet. I pray every day, more than once actually, for God to give me the strength to stay clean, to take the urge of my addiction away from me….I don’t want to be the disappointment or the embarrassment of the family. I want to and need to be a better Christian, a better son, a better father, and a better brother. I don’t want to go back to my old way of thinking, I am a New Creation…”
4/2/14 From Westville Correctional Center: “They transferred me out of Plainfield last Thursday and brought me all the way up here. This place is about 3 times as big as Plainfield and has a lot more people here too. Lots and lots of gang members of all colors and races. I’m not going to pretend and say that it doesn’t unnerve me a bit, but I really think that this is what God means when He says to trust in Him and to completely rely on Him for everything. Pray for God’s protection though please. It’s amazing how He can send His messages to me when I continue and keep reading my Bible. I just got done reading the book of John right before I got moved, and after reading through the book and the other Gospels and what they say about the pain and suffering and the mental abuse and humiliation that He went through for me even though He didn’t do anything wrong and didn’t deserve any of what He went through. I do deserve to be where I am and anything that happens to me while I’m in here still couldn’t compare to what He went through just for me. It puts that whole “I can do all things through Christ” in a whole new light I think. I can do this through His grace and mercy. I am standing on that promise. As I sit here writing this it’s very sunny, breezy, and I can see and hear the seagulls from Lake Michigan outside. If I close my eyes I can almost pretend that I’m on the beach out there, almost. lol. I’ll write more about my impressions later as they come to me. Can you remember to ask Roger to change my address for the Hot Rod? Thank you, I love that magazine. I’m sure that you’ve told the family where I am, send my love to them as well, and let them know that I’ll write them as soon as I can get some more stamps and envelopes...Oh yeah, can you find and send the lyrics to that song Alive by Natalie Grant? I really like that song. Thanks. P.S. I think I’m going to use the next few years and learn some Spanish. I think I could use it here and when I get out. Something useful to know I think.”
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